Growing Pains founder Mademoiselle Yulia is one of Japan’s, no, one of the world’s most recognisable and beloved icons at the forefront of fashion and art with her signature blunt bangs and conceptual style. She’s not easy to miss, whether it’s at a party DJ-ing or at an exclusive event mingling with others.
So it’s not without a doubt that as she started her label Growing Pains back in 2016, there was much to anticipate since her debut, now with the Fall 2017 collection for Tokyo Fashion Week. Held in a parking lot, five floors above a Shibuya nightclub, Mademoiselle Yulia is no stranger to doing things a bit differently, but in such a Yulia style.
For she, this season was all about combining the art of the femme body and military together in a hybrid form of power and empowerment. Through collective exploration of gender-fluid clothing, the results compromise of trousers, oversized overalls, gathered skirts and puffy-sleeves, with a prominent influence from working women of the 40’s. Entitled The Nourishment, Mademoiselle Yulia explored the means of what it meant (within the WWII-era) essentially a working woman in the past, and what it means to be one now in modern society.
Most obvious from the bold red palettes that came down the runway with models adorned in red-cross motifs, that the notion of being an aid during that era with a pseudo-nurse look – the nun-like skirt lengths, berets and gloves could not have been missed. The overall palette was broody, but worked well against the dark, albeit eerily illuminated venue with pieces adorning whites, blacks, khaki and an occasional burst of orange or yellow. The concept would be granted successful, with separate pieces in the collection having the potential to be incredible and versatile closet staples, while the dramatics of the myriad-fetish runway looks staying theatrical for the masses.
For Mademoiselle Yulia, everything must be above the average. Her vision of a fun-filled fantasy of punkish zealous comes together, and through the bombing background music could only be made possible with a bit of latex, fur and even the occasionally, body-hugging straps (which are, of course in trend) and divine chokers.