Mitsuru Nishizaki spent seven years working and studying under beloved avant-garde godfather Yohji Yamamoto to carefully, and precisely build up his skills in the fine, and elusive art of draping and cutting.
Therefore, the skills that Nishizaki drew upon during his time under Yamamoto clearly showed with this collection, with every move he makes as a designer expressing accuracy and detail within his own label, Ujoh, where tailoring is explored in a more relaxed and modern adaption of classic menswear silhouettes. The juxtaposition of being dressed up versus dressed down, or even both, shows in the manner of Nishizaki’s style, where he’s able to draw on comfortable enough pieces to be feminine for the ideal city girl, but also having elements of loose-fitting suits for a rather refined feel. Dealing with the concept of ‘scrap and build’, Nishizaki, this season around was solely focused on working on an already wearable wardrobe – to deconstruct things and then carefully rebuild it to be wearable again in another form of existence.
With an illuminating colour palette that expanded from both sides of the spectrum, models came down with scruffy bunched hair and a thin expression, in either cool looks, or beautifully soft and bright pastels. There were even instances of complimentary looks where both a dusty pink coat with loose grey bottoms could work well together. A major element to the collection, of course, was the exquisite outerwear of trench coats, blazers and bomber jackets, additionally with more whimsical and fun pieces that included spliced up dresses, lacy skirts and patterned bottoms to give the final touch of a more sophisticated and youthful feel to Nishizaki’s client list.
Such a unique take on the relaxed boho style would have it that Ujoh could be easily extendable, and influenced to the likes of many notable Western designers that include Jil Sander and Raf Simons – it would be most delightful to see where Ujoh will go as a brand in the future. That would be the very difference between Nishizaki as a student of Yamamoto, and Nishizaki as a creative force, and define him as a powerhouse within the Japanese fashion scene.