Edward Russell
With a front row of A-listers and the hottest androgynous model lineup you’ll ever see, Hedi Slimane reimagined 90’s Kurt Cobain with impressive results for the Saint Laurent Spring 2016 show in Paris last month.
As always, the setting was totally on point- featuring a moving sidewalk, pillars with rainbow lights and the most kickass soundtrack ever (featuring Californian band Swimmers) the show was a treat for the senses. It paid homage to Californian Surf culture and looked like a high-end regurgitated thrift shop (that is meant in the most flattering way possible). Basically, the surfer/ musician/ hipster mashup of your dreams. Like that interesting kid in class who is mysterious and always dresses well, but you’re never quite sure whether he’s paying $500 or $5 for his shirt.
If there’s one thing Saint Laurent’s show proved it’s that the 90’s is well and truly back. Dig up your plaid and acid wash denim jacket now (who am I kidding, I never put mine away). Slimane succeeded at making sure the clothes were inspired- but not dated- and provided a faultless contemporary take on the clothes our parents wore, crafting them for the new generation. I’m talking plaid shirts with frayed hems, patchwork biker jackets in perfectly worn in leather and loud printed cardigans that are so grandma that they’re cool. Canvas sneakers. White framed glasses. Fringed suede. I had heart palpations of total joy watching this show.
Never one to miscalculate a collection, Slimane managed to dress up the thrift store vibe of the show by throwing in a few couture inspired tuxedo jackets (featuring florals, one of the biggest trends to come out of Men’s Fashion Week). This collection is really one bright, loud display of everything that’s great about fashion right now: risk-taking, gender fluidity and that huge hit of unapologetic grunge that is so en vogue. As usual, Saint Laurent does no wrong.
